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Son of Scratchy

My dad loved to feed the birds. He even made a special pole-mounted feeder to discourage the tree squirrels from eating all the bird seed. He also fed his squirrels to keep them away from the feeder. At least, that was the excuse he used. I suspect he really just had a soft spot for them.

When I lived on a farm, he would come down every year after the field corn was harvested and glean the missed ears from the field. He put them in boxes, and used the dried corn to feed His Squirrels all winter. Dad really knew how to glean corn, since he had grown up on a farm back in the days when corn harvesting wasn’t as efficient as it is today (think horses and mules). Gleaning every last bit of corn was important to maximize the harvest.

In this case, it meant food for his furry little friends. Dad had one squirrel who would even come up to the storm door and scratch on it, begging for food. I swear I am not making this up. I saw it with my own two eyes! He named it Scratchy.

I have a confession to make – I don’t share my dad’s love of squirrels, at least not the ones that raid our feeders and gardens. Our county extension educator refers to them as “rats with good PR”. In MG classes we heard horror stories of the damage squirrels can inflict on homes. And I have friends who finally gave up their urban vegetable gardens because they got tired of fighting the squirrels. They are particularly hard on tomatoes, often taking one bite out of an almost-ripe fruit and then leaving the rest of it to rot. One time I watched a squirrel with a big tomato in its mouth doing a balancing act on overhead utility wires. It wound up losing its grip and the tomato fell to the street below with a bit SPLAT.

So far I have not had problems with the squirrels eating veggies or fruit. They mostly help themselves to the bird feeders, though I did have one who kept digging up succulents I had planted in a shallow bowl. I have no idea what the attraction was there, since they didn’t eat the plants.

squirrel raiding bird feeder

squirrel raiding bird feeder

I doubt we’ll see the squirrels leave anytime soon. There’s no real shortage of them, for one thing. Plus we have one neighbor with a large pecan tree in the yard and another that feeds them corn. So at best I am fighting a battle of containment. I don’t want them to be complacent when they visit Happy Acres. They might decide to go after our tomatoes some day if they get too comfy here.

Oh no - here He comes again!

Oh no - I hear Him coming!

So every time I see them I do my best to shoo them off. I want them to think of me as a wild-eyed Mr McGregor, waving my arms and yelling at them. I don’t want to get on a first name basis with them. And yes, I know they do perform some valuable ecological services like dispersing seeds and nuts and such. Tell that to my pals with the missing tomatoes!

I think I have mentioned before that both my wife and I like gadgets. When we combined our households a few years back, we found that together we often had 3 or 4 (or more) of every kitchen gadget ever invented. So it should be no surprise to anyone that I have a few gardening gadgets too. In fact, a couple of them are so handy that I thought they deserved special mention.

One of my most used gadgets outdoors is a PH meter. Soil PH is an important factor in successfully growing many plants. Simply put, if the PH is out of whack, the plants can’t take up the nutrients they need from the soil. Getting your soil tested by a lab is a great way to empirically measure the average nutrients and composition of the soil. And for many purposes that is all you really need to know. But when growing plants with very specific PH needs you might find a wide range of conditions in your own backyard.

soil PH meter

soil PH meter

There are many acid-loving plants like azaleas, rhododendrons and blueberries that thrive in a very narrow range of low (more acid) soil PH, while others like lavender, lilacs, and many of the brassicas (cabbage and broccoli) prefer their soil more alkaline or near neutral. That’s why I decided to get a single-function PH meter. I use it to measure PH in a particular part of the garden. It keeps me from unnecessary applications of lime or sulfur to change soil PH, as well as letting me know when more adjustments are needed. When I first starting using it I was surprised by the variations I found.

Another gadget I use a lot is a thermometer. I have a soil thermometer made just for that task plus I also use a kitchen variety instant-read thermometer. Of course the instant-read one is also handy for baking and other kitchen applications.

soil and instant read thermometers

soil and instant read thermometers

The soil thermometer is great for determining the proper time to plant many vegetables outdoors. Growing instructions from some sources are often vague, like “plant in cool soil” or “plant when soil has thoroughly warmed”. What do those terms mean? What is “cool soil” exactly? A thermometer takes away the guesswork. The one I got is weather proof so I can leave it outdoors in the soil.

It has the preferred temperatures for many vegetables printed right on the dial, but I use my reference books for determining the exact preferences. And just like PH, soil temps vary considerably depending on location. People are always asking me when it’s time to plant tomatoes. “Early May” is a good rule of thumb in these parts but the best answer is “when the soil is warm enough”.  I’ll plant my early varieties when the soil gets to 60F. I prepare the soil, stick the thermometer in, and wait. Plant them any sooner and they’ll just sit there and sulk. Plant them too soon and they’ll never get over it!

I use the instant read thermometer to take the soil temp when germinating seeds. There are so many variables to consider when starting seeds. My fluorescent light setup is in our unheated basement, and temps down there are quite chilly in winter, less so in summer. Of course the lights heat up the soil somewhat, and a heating mat heats it up even more. The seeds themselves don’t care about generalities – they want to know the exact soil temperature before they decide to germinate, and every species has their own preferences.

Readings I took today tell me the soil where my lettuce seedlings are growing is 72F, while the soil for the artichoke seeds is at 79F on the heating mat. The lettuce prefers it cooler (40-60F), and it no doubt is at night when the lights go off and the basement cools. I got well over 90% germination, so it liked the environment well enough. The artichoke likes to germinate in the 70-80F range, and since it started coming up in 8 days it seems happy too. When it comes time to start my tomatoes and peppers I might need more than a heating mat to warm the soil, but I have ways to do just that.

Until then, that’s enough blathering from Inspector Gadget. Now, does anybody need their temperature taken?

It’s hard to go a day without running into something, somewhere that claims to be “New and Improved”. Supermarket shelves are loaded with such items, which in many cases are the same old sad, tired products repackaged in smaller containers (but selling for the same price).

And software designers just can’t resist the urge to add new bells and whistles to their products. For my tastes they should spend more time making the existing features actually work before they trot out new releases. I doubt that I use even 5% of the features in most of them anyway!

newandimproved

The plant world is no different. Every year the nurseries and catalogs regale us with their new introductions. Plant breeders strive for colors and shapes not normally seen in nature. How long before we see blue zinnias, or ruffled morning glories? Don’t laugh, Burpee actually featured a double white morning glory in their 1919 catalog. I guess it didn’t catch on.

I’m not buying the hype. I am convinced that not only is “new” not always better, many times it is actually worse! This year I am looking backwards in time to try old, tried-and-true varieties in my gardens.

For instance, I recently found a seed source for Ruby lettuce. I grew it years ago, and then the catalogs dropped it (no doubt to make room for the new and improved ones). It was a 1958 AAS winner and a nice red leaf variety. I found it at Victory Seeds, ironically on the NEW for 2010 page! I’m also growing Salad Bowl lettuce, a 1952 AAS winner that has stood the test of time. It’s a modest little oak leaf lettuce that is ‘slow to bolt, tolerant of heat, and doesn’t get bitter’. Hmm, hard to improve much on that!

In another retro moment, we are growing luffa gourds this year. I can remember growing them as a kid! My wife and I are going to experiment with soap making, and the dried luffas will make great natural scrubbers. Of course it will be next year before we have any to experiment with, but that’s ok.

In the Wild Garden I’m growing State Fair zinnia, which is a tetraploid variety around since the 1950s. I grew it last year and the butterflies loved it. There are some new zinnias out this year called Zahara which are AAS winners. They look lovely, but I think I’ll wait a few years. I want some feedback on whether the butterflies like them. Their opinion is important to me.

I’m also going to plant couple of rugosa roses, so we can have a nice supply of rose hips for tea. I grew Blanc Double De Coubert years ago, before I really appreciated the hips. It will be nice to have it back in the garden. It was introduced in 1892 – hardly a newcomer!

Another exciting find this year is Ramapo tomato. I grew it back in the 1980s but then it disappeared just like Ruby did. Apparently I wasn’t the only one to miss it, because the folks at Rutgers brought it back in late 2007. It’s a large red slicing tomato with an excellent taste, and I look forward to it gracing our table again.

I guess my one-man boycott of things “new and improved” won’t change the overall scheme of things. Marketing people will still hype, and catalogs will still trumpet the arrival of the latest and greatest.

It’s just falling on deaf ears here at Happy Acres!

At a presentation I gave last year on growing greens I was asked how I managed succession planting for lettuce. My answer was “always have seedlings ready to plant”.  To do that, I start lettuce seeds indoors every 3-4 weeks. It’s really simple, it just takes a little planning.

lettuce seedlings

lettuce seedlings

Last week I started seeds for lettuce, radicchio, endive, arugula, pak choi, and tatsoi. When transplanted in the garden they will yield greens for salads and stir-fries in March and April. Next month I will sow more seeds, perhaps lettuce and komatsuna. As warm weather approaches I choose more heat-tolerant and bolt-resistant varieties. Having a continual supply of seedlings means I always have something ready to replace the things I harvest.

For starting most small seeds like lettuce, broccoli, tomato, basil etc I like to use the 200-cell plug flat below. After germination I’ll thin to one seedling per cell, and when the seedlings are ready for planting or transplanting I just use my little transplant tool and plop them right out of the cells. That way the roots are undisturbed, and it saves me a lot of time when dealing with large numbers of seedlings.

200 cell plug flat

200 cell plug flat

I got these plug flats from Johnny’s Selected Seeds, and they also come in different sized cells for larger seeds and transplants. Still, I find I use this size the most for vegetables, flowers and herbs. Each cell is slightly less than 1 inch square (20mm) and is 1.5 inches deep.

And even though it has 200 cells you don’t have to use them all. Many times I use less, and since it is the size of a standard flat it doesn’t take up a lot of room under the fluorescent lights.

I do find it helps to keep a garden log to help with the planning. I use an Excel spreadsheet – nothing fancy, just one line per variety (or event), with dates and notes. I may miss a few entries occasionally, but for the most part I do my best to document what’s going on.

It takes a leap of faith to be planting salad greens when there’s 6 inches of snow on the ground, but that a big part of gardening, isn’t it?

Sweet potatoes are a winter staple here at Happy Acres. They produce well, and keep for many months if cured and stored properly. I have to chuckle when I read articles on the Web that say they don’t store very well. It’s true, they don’t keep long at room temperatures, but what food does? After being cured, we keep ours in an unheated basement. Ideal storage temperatures are 55-60F (they should not be refrigerated). The flavor of sweet potatoes actually improves in storage, allowing the sugars to develop.

Rosemary Roasted Sweet Potatoes in the oven

Rosemary Roasted Sweet Potatoes ready for the oven

This recipe combines two of my favorite plants to grow: rosemary and sweet potatoes. The bold taste and scent of rosemary pairs well with the sweet potatoes in one of our favorite dishes. A serving will provide you with over 200% of the daily requirement of vitamin A, plus a healthy amount of potassium and fiber.

Rosemary Roasted Sweet Potatoes Print This Recipe
A Happy Acres Original

3 medium sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces (about 1 3/4 pounds)
1 cup onion, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 Tbs extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbs water
1 Tbs chopped fresh rosemary, plus 1 sprig
1/8 tsp pepper
1/2 tsp salt

1. Preheat oven to 400°F.

2. Combine all ingredients in a 13 x 9-inch baking dish, tossing to mix.

3. Cover with foil and bake at 400° for 45 minutes or until tender, stirring occasionally.

Servings: 6 (serving size about 1 cup)

Nutrition Facts
Nutrition (per serving): 142 calories, 21 calories from fat, 2.4g total fat, 0mg cholesterol, 267.4mg sodium, 474.8mg potassium, 28.6g carbohydrates, 4.3g fiber, 6.3g sugar, 2.3g protein, 45.1mg calcium, <1g saturated fat.

Rosemary Babies

“There’s rosemary, that’s for remembrance.”
– Ophelia in Shakespeare’s Hamlet.

Long associated with memory and remembering, rosemary is an ancient herb that has many habits of growth and even more uses. Its name derives from the Latin, ros, meaning dew, and marinus, of the sea, giving it one of its common names “dew of the sea”.

For those not familiar with growing it, rosemary is an evergreen Mediterranean shrub with resinous, pine needle like leaves. The upright forms usually grow between two and five feet tall, while the creeping varieties grow more horizontally and are useful for rock gardens or trailing over walls. The upright forms are typically preferred for culinary uses, since they usually have more taste and scent.

Many varieties are not reliably hardy in our zone 6 climate, so I grow quite a few plants in pots as well as those I plant in the ground. Rosemary can be grown from seed, but the named varieties will have to be grown from cuttings. The cultivars “Arp” and “Madelene Hill” (aka “Hill Hardy”) are two of the hardiest selections, while “Tuscan Blue” is less hardy but a favorite in the kitchen.

Cuttings taken from woody or semi-woody parts of the plant will root in 3-4 weeks if taken while the plant is actively growing. I often make my cuttings in fall. They’ll take longer to root then, but I find the cooler temps of late fall are easier on the cuttings. I’ll root them in a gritty potting mix and by spring they’ll be ready for potting up or for setting out in the garden.

rosemary cuttings with lower leaves stripped

rosemary cuttings with lower leaves stripped off

If you have a plant, or have a friend who’s willing to let you have a few cuttings, here’s how to go about growing rosemary from cuttings:

  1. Snip or pinch off a 3-4 inch cutting from a well-established plant.
  2. Remove the leaves from the bottom inch of the stem, then dip the end into some rooting hormone (available from your garden center).
  3. Stick the dipped end into a container filled with a coarse, sterile potting mix. Perlite works well, or use perlite mixed half and half with a peat based seed starting mix. You want a well-draining mix.
  4. Place the container in a warm spot, out of direct sun. Fluorescent plant lights work well for rooting cuttings. Some sources recommend covering the container with a plastic bag, but I’ve found it unnecessary and it can cause the foliage to fall off and the cuttings to fail. Misting can help if the air is dry, just don’t overdo it.
  5. Check daily, and water as needed. Do not allow medium to dry out, but don’t keep it waterlogged either.
  6. In 3-4 weeks, check for root growth by gently tugging on cuttings. If you feel resistance, the cutting has rooted. If not, give it some more time.
  7. Once rooted, pot the cuttings into individual 3-4 inch pots, using a coarse potting mix (rosemary hates having wet feet).

rosemary cutting in perlite

rosemary cuttings in perlite

I took this “Madelene Hill” rosemary cutting last month, and after 4 weeks it is well rooted and ready to be potted up:

rooted rosemary cutting

rooted rosemary cutting

To encourage branching, you can pinch off the tip of the plant after potting up. Below is a young “Arp” plant that was rooted and potted up a couple of months ago. It’s already developing a nice bushy shape.

young "Arp" rosemary plant

young "Arp" rosemary plant

If you like growing rosemary, why not try making a few babies – Rosemary babies that is!

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